How to choose the right microblades / microblading needles – Deluxe Brows® Part 1
TIP NR.1 HOW TO CHOOSE GOOD QUALITY MICROBLADING NEEDLES / BLADES
Almost for every new microblading artist and sometimes even for those with experience it is really difficult to analyze and understand which kind of microblading needles / blades we need to use for our treatments. I did the research regarding this long time ago and during our training I am trying to explain all the differences between several kinds of needles. However I decided to share with all of you the most important tips that my company and I mostly use while choosing the needles. I hope this will help you to make your own decisions.
Microblading treatments and trainings taking the industry by storm. Each and every company trying to stay on top, offering the new tools, needles, pigments and all kinds of new items that helps this industry to grow.
With this post I will share one of the most important tips, which will help you to choose your microblades/ microblading needles.
The visual test can be very insignificant. As you can see in the picture on the right, the blades and needles inside look almost similar, but in reality they are completely different. So how do we know which of them are good or bad?
Have you ever experienced that your strokes are not as clear and pigment on the stroke spreads unevenly? If this is happening with your flexible blades it is definitely your pressure. This is very common when you have luck of experience regarding right pressure and angles.
All these things may also happen if you are using poor quality blades. When the needles in the blade are not fixed in the correct way it is very easy to make two strokes instead of one (Blade Nr.1) Always check your needles with the loop before each treatment. If the skin is so thin sometimes you can not even realize that needles are bended, you will only see the the double line when it’s done. When these kind of strokes heal the lines won’t be crispy. If needles are bended it is not possible to repeat the line properly.
What should you do to make sure? How to avoid double lines and get crispy results?
- Always make sure you keep your needles 90 degrees to the skin and don’t draw sideways.
- Press gently and very slowly, by releasing your pressure at both ends.
- Use thinner (nano/0.18) needles for thinner skin and thinner natural hairs and a bit thicker (0.20-0.25) needles for thicker skin and thicker natural hairs.
- Flexible needles really helps to get used to gentle pressure. So I really recommend to work with flexible needles to avoid deep/ashy strokes. Especially on very thin skin.
- Use good quality stainless steel needles that are well fixed with each other.
- Always check your needles with the loop
- You can also check your blade by pressing it on the side with your nail. The needles shouldn’t move much.
The needles in good quality blade will be stable (like the Blade Nr.2) despite the fact that blade it self is flexible. It will be easier to draw and the result will be always the same – clear and crispy strokes!
TIP NR.2 HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT THICKNESS OF THE BLADE
The other important thing is to understand what is the best thickness of your blades and how it affects the results.
The main important thing is that thinner blades are more sharp then thicker blades. To understand why they are sharper, have a look on the left picture were you could see Blade Nr.1, which has thicker needles, and Blade Nr.2, which has thinner needles. As thinner the needles are in the blade as closer they are together. As closer they are as more sharp the blade is.
If you want to avoid missing parts in your strokes or not to get the results with small dots instead of crispy lines, always choose the right needle for different type of skin.
I do not recommend using 0.3 needles.
TIP NR. 3 FILLING AND CHECKING THE STROKES
While trying to get you strokes darker with several passes, try to use the blades with fewer needles. You will be able to implant pigment in the each part of the stroke easier and more precisely. The new blades that are very comfortable for filling the strokes are 3 pins. Take picture during the work and use the negative filter. You will clearly see in which parts the pigment is missing.
Nov. 29th, 2017 Update Deluxe Brows® Needles Configurations
Needles for strokes
- Always choose the one you feel more comfortable with.
- U needles might be better for curved strokes and back/forth filling method
- Smaller angled needles are more comfortable for touch-up and short strokes
- Bigger angled needles are perfect for long strokes, filling and outlining
Needles for shading
- My personal preference for shading in between strokes is Nano Angled 17pins
- I often use 17 pins only and do the whole brow combo only with one needle
- Mini shaders are perfect for outlining, “dots” effect and small areas
- Bunch type needles will give more opaque powder effect
- Double shaders are nice for whole brow ombre effect
- It is ideal when strokes completely matches with natural hairs
- As thinner the needles are as thinner the strokes will be
- For thicker skin and thicker natural hairs choose a bit thicker needles to give more density
- There are two different materials that are used to cover the needles basis – plastic and stainless steel
- Flexible needles are covered with plastic
- Hard needles are covered with stainless steel
- Flexible needles might be more difficult to control for beginners, however they are perfect in order to feel the right depth. If you feel that needles are drawing double lines, gets dull fast or keeps bending – make sure to work more on your pressure and consistence.
- Hard needles are easier to control, however there might be a risk of going deeper.
- Hard needles might be better for thicker skin with bigger pores. Do not use those for thin and sensitive skin
- I suggest to work with hard needles only if you are an advanced user already.
Download Deluxe Brows® Needles Chart